Steering Box & Bracket

PARTS & SUPPLIES NEEDED
AGR Superbox 2
Parts Mike Bracket
7/6 flat washer (2mm thick)
Black Spray paint
Power Steering flluid


TOOLS NEEDED
Paint pen (any color but black)
Dremel with cutting disks
Drain Pain
Propane hand torch
Assorted Sockets & wrenches
Angle Grinder

I was also a little concerned about the proximity of the TRE on my Pitman arm contacting the diff under compression. Not only had I done a massive 1.5" stretch with waggy springs, but my OX Locker diff covers are pretty big. The solution was to get a Parts Mike Steering box Bracket. The bracket is supposed to move the box 1" forward & 1" down. I also got a screaming deal from somone on an AGR Super Box 2, so I figured while I'm in there I may as well replace my box. Before you even start, go ahead and start soaking the center joint of your shaft with PB blaster. It's probably frozen tighter than a ... well, you know.

1. As you can see, my diff is pretty close to the pitman arm TRE. So we need to start removing parts.


2. The first thing to do is to remove the little clamp on the frame that is holding the steering box hoses.


3. Next you will loosen the bolts on your steering shaft and remove it completely. Once you get the shaft out you'll want to free up the center joint on it. A little PB blaster does the trick, or you can order a new Flaming River unit like I had. Nothing wrong with mine though so it goes to the for sale pile.


4. Once the shaft is out You can remove the box itself. If you are not replacing the box, tie it up and out of the way then skip to step 5. If you are replacing the box, go ahead and remove the hoses from the top of the box and move them up and out the way. You're gonna spill a little power steering fluid so have that drain pan handy. My hoses refused to cooperate and while I was trying to remove them I smashed the lines. Awesome. So I went ahead and cut them and ordered new parts. Made a nice mess as well.


5. Now, we get to put the new bracket on the box. Parts Mike directions say something about trimming some spacers from the lower bolts ... I had no such spacers. What I did find was that I had a ~2mm space between the bracket & the box (red circles in the pics). I dug through my junk and found a perfect sized washer to fill the void.


6. The next step is to do some test fitting. I found that I was having a little interference between the bracket & the frame (red circles in the pics). So I used the angle grinder to trim the bracket slightly.




7. I also found it to be a very tight fit between the hoses and the body itself. I have no body lift but if you do this may not be an issue. Before & after of my trimming with the Dremel. When you are done trimming everything, hit it with the paint.


8. After completing your trimming, go ahead and install the the box, bracket & shaft and make sure everything is still lined up. You'll first attach the box to the bracket with all new hardware, then the whole thing to the Jeep with the original hardware. You'll probably require a little tweaking to your draglink, I did. As you can see, the TRE is in a much better place now. I could also run a regular pitman arm for a little more clearance (I have a DPA on now).


9. One thing to note is that it is probably a lot easier to get the box back in if you remove your front bumper, but I didn't. You can see, it's a tight fit. Another note is that if you run a steering box brace like I do, you will need to modify it to work with the new box position. I was able to beat on mine and make it fit in it's new home.... eventually. Also note that if you have a front sway bar and want to keep it, you'll have some fabbing to do.


10. I'll post up a review of the new steering box after I get to wheel it!