REAR BUMPER & TIRE CARRIER / BUMPER BRACKETS

PARTS & SUPPLIES NEEDED
2ft - 1" DOM .219 wall
2ft - 4" angle 5/16" thick
6 - 5" (or so) grade 8 1/2" bolts (brackets through frame)
5ft - 2"x6" box tube 3/16" thick (will be cut to 57 3/4")
10ft - 2" box tube 1/4" thick
6ft - 1" box tube 3/16" thick
~1sq ft scrap 1/4 steel
10" - 2" angle 1/4 thick
4 - 2" (or so) grade 8 1/2" bolts (brackets to bumper outside
4 - 2" (or so) grade 8 7/16 bolts (bumper thtough crossmember to flat plates
License Plate light (AutoZone)
10ft 16ga wire (5 red, 5 black)
Wiring quick disconnect for 2 or more wires (look in the towing section of you parts store)
2x18" ID Box (for Reciever)
Tire carrier kit purchased off ebay contained:
--Hinge
--Latch
--Spare mount plate


TOOLS NEEDED
Welder
Angle Grinder
Drill with assorted bits up to 1/14" (for hinge)

Brackets

1. First thing I did was to make the rear bumper brackets. To start those you will first want to pull out the rear body mount bushing. From there, I started by cutting a thick piece of cardboard and placing it inside the rear crossmember so I could make a template for the angle. Once you have a rough cutout, go ahead and try to wedge it up in there and grind it down until it fits. In hindsight, I should have ground down the littl lip on the stock crossmember and not messed with the angle so much. That also would have allowed me to weld the DOM on further away from the bolt holes (which are very tight on mine).

2. After you get that piece the way you want it, drill some holes and bolt it in. Now you can test fit the front piece of angel and the DOM. My DOM pieces are right under 5" each. When you get them the way you want them bolt on both pieces of angle )carefule drilling by the gas tank) and tack the DOM on. Remove, finish weld and paint.


3. Yuo will also want to cut out two retangle pieces to fit up in the factory crossmember behind the gas tank. this is where you'll use the 7/16 bolts. Don't forget to put your body mount bolt back in. I ended up using a random bushing I had lying around but you can always cut your bushing down to make it all fit.

Bumper

4. With the brackets bolted in place, you can go ahead and start on the bumper itself. I used 2 jackstands to approximate where I wanted the bumper to sit. Once in place, you can mark your spots and weld 4 - 6" pieces of the 2" box to the 2x6 box tube.



5. While the bumper is off, go ahead and cap the ends, drill the holes for the bolts. Then measure and cut out (jigsaw) the hole for your receiver tube and weld it in. I also used a foot or so of 1" box behind the bumper to be over kill.


6. Before you take the bumper off, it is a good time to cut two tabs to run to the bottom of the frame from the bumper. I forgot and was kicking myself after I painted it all.

Tire Carrier

7. Now you can go ahead and measure for your main carrier arm. Once you get your measurement you can drill your hole for your hinge. Since I used 2x6 box for my bumper the hingle mount I had was 2" to short. No sweat though, I welded on some scrap DOM form the brackets and it all came out fine.



8. Now you can cut your main carrier arm & main upright out of the 2" box. My main arm is 43" wide and the upright is 17" (not including main arm). The two side braces (1" box) for the center upright are about 18.5". The nub that the wheel mount plate is attached to is about 3". The center upright is angled back about 5* from the bottom cross. The wheel mount is about 3* more angled then that. The angles on yours may be different though depending on your tire, wheel and how far back your bumper goes.


9. Now you'll want to use the 2" angle to make a stop for the main carrier arm. You can also use that angle as the latch point like I did.



10. Once you get the tire on, you can always adjust the little nub by taking out a slice of it and rewelding. In my case it came out OK but I ended up wanting to make a removeable license plate mount ... so don't paint until you are sure you are happy with everything





11. The last thing I did was to add the quick release license plate. I welded some of the left over receiver hitch (2" ID) to the center of the spare mount. Then I took the stock license plate frame and welded on 2" box to the back so the fit together. I also bolted on some scrap sheel metal to the stock license plate frame so I could mount a light. You will also need to run some wires from your taillight to your new license plate light. Don't forget the trailer harness disconnets so you can unplug the light for removal of the spare.