PARTS & SUPPLES NEEDED
TSM Disk Brake Kit #2460
TSM calipers with e-brake #3110
TSM stainless brake lines #3702-8
Wilwood proportioning valve - TSM #3328
12" of 1X1 square tube
Brake fluid
1 foot of brake hard line
TOOLS NEEDED
4.5" Angle grinder (with cut off wheel) or a Dremel
Welding machine (or run the small parts to the muffler shop)
Assorted sockets
Vice Grips
Bender for brake hard line
Fluid drain pan
Drill & assorted bits
1. Begin by placing the rear axle on jack stands and removing the wheels.
2. Remove the drums and loosen the axle/wheel bearing retaining bolts and pull the shafts out.
3. Clamp off your rear rubber hose with bthe vice grips and place the fluid drain pan under one side.
4. Loosen the hard line fitting going into the backing plate and drain the fluid.
5. Remove the backing plate, shoes, springs and seperate your ebrake cable.
6. Now you can place the space plates on the housing with the 4 new bolts (I used the old bolts in the picture)
7. Slide the axle in and then put on the new caliper bracket. NOTE: Save yourself some time and cut off the stock retainer plate before putting the shaft in. I didn't and had to go back and cut it off so you'll see it in some of my pictures. Also note that I had to grind some of the washers down to get the bolt in all the way.
8. Here are some shots of it going together without the stock retainer and with the shaved washers.
9. With the bracket on it's time to mount the calipers. I ran int oa little trouble here. The caliper bolt ran smack into my leaf spring. If I had a lift block that would be no problem, but I don't and don't want one. Rather than loosen the springs, I decided to shave the head of the caliper bolt so it would slide in. This was worse on the pass side for whatever reason.
10. Next problem I had was that the little parking brake extension kit I had didn't seem to be working correctly. That's why I list the 1" box tube in my parts list. I removed the parking brake parts, drilled a hole in the tube to match the one on the bracket and welded it together (Be careful when you remove the spring). Works like a champ.
11. Now to get it all back together. I found that my vice and some zip ties worked pretty well for getting the spring back in there. be careful that little thing hurts like hell when it pops off and smacks you.
12. Almost finished product.
13. Now you will want to trim your stock hard line on the axle and flare the line with the proper fittings. Weld the mounting tab for the hard/soft connection and paint it.
14. Plumb your proportioning valve in along the frame, bleed & adjust everythying per TSMs instructions and your should be good to go.
