ANTI SPRING-WRAP BAR

PARTS & SUPPLIES NEEDED
4 - 5/8" Rod Ends (2 LH thread 2 RH thread)
\ 50" - 1-1/8"x .188 DOM
Scrap 5/8" ID pipe (to make misalignment spacers)
4 - 5/8"x3" Bolts
1 - 1/2"x3.5" bolt
Scrap 2.5" leaf spring (main) with new bushing
--Note:a stock YJ main leaf is pretty thin so I used an explorer leaf

1ft - Scrap 2x6 box tube (to make brackets)
Spare stock shackle
Silver paint pen
Black Spray paint
Bling spray paint


TOOLS NEEDED
Welding machine
Jigsall
4.5" Angle Grinder with cutting & grinding discs
14" Abrasive chop saw
Dremel with cutting disks
Drill with assorted bits (up to 5/8)
Assorted Sockets & wrenches
Jack Stands & floor jack

I did a good bit of research before deciding on a final design for this project. I actually even bought a used bar from someone else then decided I didn't love the design. Lots of people just run one fixed radius/ladder style bar. Others run one that pivots atop the u-bolt plate. I definitly think those would have binding issues. I looked on the internet and came across the Skyjacker 5th link bar. It looked like a good piece but it was a bit too expensive. Other bars that mounted to the stock skid plate had a flaw that knocked them off my list as well... The previous owner of my YJ had put on a t-case drop that I knew I would be getting rid of shortly ... my bar had to be able to adjust for that. I also think that bars like the Skyjacker would require some retooling of the axle bracket if you changed axle location, lift height and so on. The design conclusion I came to is a combination of ideas. It has the shackle pivot of the Skyjacker & others, but also acts like a "long arm" seen in many TJ/XJ front end suspension lifts. It has many pivot points and is fully adjustable. I can easily replace either section without having to replace the whole thing like I would if I had a 1 piece bar that got trashed. In my case it is pretty likely the lower bar will see some abuse, but it will also be easy to replace.

1. The first thing I wanted to do was to make sure each rod end would have sufficient movement within it's mount. So I needed some brackets & misalignment spacers for the rod ends. The scrap pipe was perfect for the spacers (I did ream then out with the dremel a bit though) just cut them like donuts. Cutting out the brackets would require the jigsaw & grinder to make the nice semicircular cuts for the axle end. I would have used some of the 2x6 box for the brackets but lucky for me my waggy axles still had trackbar brackets on them, so I cut them off & cleaned them up. Later on I weled on some grade 8 washers to close in the adjustability of the holes.




2. Now you need to cut down the leaf spring. This was, by far, the most time consuming part of the project for me. I figured my 14" chop saw would make quick work of it but I swear this took forever to cut lengthways. I ended up cutting it down to about 1.25" wide by 10" long. Make sure you get the stock bushing out first. I tried to skip that part and it got messy. You'll also need to trim your new bushing to fit inside (and any sleeves that go with it).



3. Now it's time to start making some marks on things as far as cutting and mounting go. I used the jigsaw & angle grinder to make the circular cuts for the axle brackets then test fit everything until I got them where I wanted them. Once I figured that out, I used the paint pen to mark where things would go.


4. After carefully checking clearances & lining up where I wanted the brackets I was ready to put them on. I started with the axle end. I'm not the worlds most talented welder so after tacking the brakcets on I jacked the vehicle up, removed the wheels & removed the rear u-bolts. This allowed me to spin the axle to lay some decent beads inside the brackets (though some on the outside still look like poo). After getting the axle back together I hit it with some black paint.


5. For the other end, I used the floor jack & a piece of 2x4 wood to support the tranny & Xfer case in from of the main skid plate. Once I removed the plate I used the previous marks I had made to sketch out a rectanlge I planned to cut out for the leaf spring piece. I then drilled out the ends and cut the remainder with the dremel.




6. Next I clamped the piece in place and welded the crap out of it. I lay decent beads when things are flat ;)


7. After some paint and some drying time I reinstalled the skid with the new mount & it's new bushing.


8. Next you'll need to mock things up and measure for the main bar that will run from the axle to your shackle. You want the shackle to be as straight up and down as possible and since I knew that in the future I would be moving the skid up I wanted to make sure I had as much ability to lengthen things as possible. My main piece came out to 29.5" leaving me with a smaller piece about 20". After cleaning up the ends I welded in the bungs and cleaned them up.



9. With the main bar installed, I went ahead and made a final bracket out of the 2x6 box. I bolted the shorter bar on the axle side and marked the longer piece for the bracket. I then removed both bars and clamped the bracket to the bar for welding. I made several passes per side to fill the crevice and ensure a good hold.



10. With the bracket on I went ahead and did a final mock up making sure everything had the correct clearances etc. Here is the final mockup before going to paint.



11. I decided to use some bling "hammered" paint on the bar and shackle. Not much else is shiny on my rig and it'll be covered with mud & scratches soon enough so...